Reference

How heavy should it be?

Fabric weight is measured in grams per square metre. It is the first thing a factory asks for, and the single number that decides whether a t-shirt drapes or stands up on its own, and whether a trouser is a summer chino or workwear.

KnittedT-shirts, hoodies, sweats, joggers
120-160 GSMLight jerseySummer tees, linings, drapey shirtsDrapes and follows the body. Shows what is under it.
oz/yd²3.5-4.7
180-220 GSMStandard jerseyThe everyday t-shirtHolds its shape without feeling stiff. The default unless you say otherwise.
oz/yd²5.3-6.5
240-280 GSMHeavy jerseyBoxy tees, longsleevesStands away from the body and hangs square. Reads as premium.
oz/yd²7.1-8.3
280-340 GSMLight french terryMid-season crewnecks, joggersWarm but not bulky. Loops on the inside, smooth face.
oz/yd²8.3-10.0
350-450 GSMFrench terry and fleeceThe standard hoodie and crewneckSubstantial in the hand. Keeps a hood upright.
oz/yd²10.3-13.3
450-500 GSMHeavy fleeceBoxy heavyweight hoodiesStructured and slow to soften. Adds noticeably to freight.
oz/yd²13.3-14.7
WovenShirts, trousers, workwear, outerwear, caps
100-160 GSMShirtingShirts, linings, light summer piecesLight and fluid. Presses to a crisp finish.
oz/yd²2.9-4.7
160-240 GSMLight twill and poplinOvershirts, summer trousers, capsHolds a crease without weighing anything.
oz/yd²4.7-7.1
240-340 GSMTwill and chinoThe standard trouser, light workwearFirm and hard-wearing. What most trousers are cut from.
oz/yd²7.1-10.0
340-480 GSMCanvas and duckWorkwear, outerwear shells, heavy trousersStiff at first and softens with wear. Takes hard use.
oz/yd²10.0-14.2
100200300400500

We quote every weight here

Any band on this page can be made. Name the one you want and we quote it. If a brief does not name a weight we default to 200-220 GSM for a cotton t-shirt and 350-450 GSM for a hoodie or crewneck, which are the weights behind the prices on the pricing page.

If a supplier quotes in ounces

Divide by 33.9 to turn GSM into ounces per square yard, multiply to go back. A 350 GSM hoodie fleece is a 10.3 oz one. Denim and canvas are usually quoted this way rather than in grams.

Sweaters work differently

Knitted sweaters are specified by gauge, the number of needles per inch, and by yarn count, not by the weight of a finished cloth. Tell us the yarn and how thick it should knit and we take it from there.

Why weight moves the price

Mills sell knitted fabric by the kilo, so a garment's fabric cost scales almost directly with its weight. The same hoodie at 450 GSM instead of 350 uses about 30% more cloth by weight, and costs more to ship on top of that. Dropping a weight band is usually the fastest way to bring a quote down without changing the design.

Not sure which band you want?

Send us a reference garment or a description of how it should feel. We shortlist fabrics and send physical swatches before anything is sampled.

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